How to Install a Tesla Charger at Home? a Complete Guide

Home Electric Car Charging Solution - Traditional Electric

Here is a step-by-step guide for putting a Tesla charger in your home.

  • Step 1: Opening Up the Charger
  • Step 2: the Baseplates
  • Step 3: Mount the Charger
  • Step 4: Run the Conduit
  • Step 5: Select and Pull the Wire
  • Step 6: Connections in the Sub Panel
  • Step 7: Connections in the Charger
  • Step 8: DIP and Rotary Switches
  • Step 9: Closing the Charger

Sales of electric vehicles (EVs) more than double in 2021, and demand is growing among consumers looking for a more sustainable energy source or who are fed up with high gas prices. You should be aware of the cost of the product, installation costs, and other related factors whether you’re thinking about installing a Tesla charger in your home, office, or other commercial property.

Here, you’ll find answers to the most common questions associated with Tesla charger installation.

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How to Install a Tesla Charger at Home?

Tesla produces what is arguably the most desirable EVs on the market today and they sell a branded EV charger. The steps should be the same for installing a charger from another manufacturer, even though this instruction will focus on installing a Tesla charger.

  • Step 1: Opening Up the Charger
  • Step 2: the Baseplates
  • Step 3: Mount the Charger
  • Step 4: Run the Conduit
  • Step 5: Select and Pull the Wire
  • Step 6: Connections in the Sub Panel
  • Step 7: Connections in the Charger
  • Step 8: DIP and Rotary Switches
  • Step 9: Closing the Charger

Step 1: Opening Up the Charger

The charger’s front cover must first be removed after being taken out of the box. The Tesla charger has two covers. The first (outer) cover is primarily for looks and it is removed by first removing a small T10 Torx screw located on the bottom of the charger. Six tiny plastic clips around the cover’s edges continue to hold it in place even after this screw is removed.

I gently pry up on the edge of the cover, starting on one side near the bottom of the charger, until the plastic clips start to come loose. I carefully maneuvered my way around the cover, taking care not to scuff the plastic. The outer cover of the charger is removed after all of the clips have disengaged.

How to Install a Tesla Charger at Home? a Complete Guide

There is an inner, weathertight cover inside the outer cover. Six Torx T20 security pin screws are used to fasten this cover. The inner cover lifts off after these screws are removed.

Step 2: the Baseplates

Two mounting bases or baseplates are included with the Tesla charger. For conduits that will enter the charger from the bottom or back, the low-profile bracket should be used; for conduits that will enter from the top, the top entry bracket should be used. The deeper top entry bracket raises the charger further from the wall so there is space for both the top entry conduit and the looped cable, which is intended to be wrapped around the charger when not in use.

There is a separate terminal block with pre-attached leads inside the bracket if you are using the top entry bracket. The pre-attached leads will enter the back of the charger and connect to the terminals there, where the wiring from your panel should come to an end.

Step 3: Mount the Charger

Since my conduit would be entering the charger from the bottom, I chose the low-profile bracket. An appropriate location should be picked before mounting the charger. First, make sure that the cord will reach the vehicle’s charge port. This usually entails mounting the charger near the car’s charging port on the wall of the garage or parking space. Tesla suggests mounting the device at a height of 4 feet above the ground with a minimum of 8 inches of space between it and any obstructions to allow the cord to hang.

After deciding on a suitable location, I screwed the low-profile bracket to the wall using the six mounting holes. Since the brick wall I was mounting to was quite brittle, I first attached a plywood baseplate to the wall using Tapcons and then screwed the low-profile bracket to the plywood.

I would advise screwing the screws on one side of the bracket into a stud and using strong drywall anchors for the other three holes if you are mounting to a drywall wall with studs. Screws of the Tapcon type ought to work well for walls made of concrete or concrete blocks. Tapcon screws for brick walls may be effective, but epoxy may be required to bond the fasteners if the brick is particularly brittle.

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The charger simply slid onto the four mounting tabs on the bracket after the mounting bracket was installed and leveled. The charger was secured to the bracket using the included Torx screws. For the purpose of maintaining aesthetics, Tesla includes tiny plastic covers for these screws.

Step 4: Run the Conduit

The charger and top entry bracket include threaded connections for 1″ conduit. If you are mounting the charger on a finished, studded wall you may be able to run un-protected Romex-type wire directly into the back of the charger, but for all other wiring configurations you will need to run conduit between the electrical panel and the charger.

There are a number of things to take into consideration when choosing conduit. The size of the conduit comes first, and is determined by the kind of conduit used, the number and size of the wires that it will carry.

The second conduit selection factor is the conduit type. Electrical metallic tubing (EMT) is one of the most widely used conduit types for interior applications, although flexible metallic conduit (FMC) or rigid metal conduit (RMC) are also used. Although there are different codes for its use, you might also be able to use rigid PVC conduit depending on your application.

PVC is perfect for use underground and in corrosive environments, but it can become brittle in direct sunlight or extremely cold temperatures. Additionally, it requires more frequent support because its structural stability is less. PVC is also more vulnerable to damage from impacts.

Despite PVC’s shortcomings, I chose to use it for my charger because it won’t be subjected to harsh environmental conditions and the risk of impaction is minimal. Since I would be running three 6 gauge and one 10 gauge wire, a 3/4″ conduit was large enough. I would recommend running 1″ conduit for 6 gauge wire as it was a tight fit in my case. I reduced the 1″ conduit leaving the charger to 3/4″ and cut, fitted, and secured the sections needed to reach the sub-panel in my garage.

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Step 5: Select and Pull the Wire

I concentrated on pulling the wires after installing the conduit. I selected the wire gauge based on the desired current load to the charger. The connections at each end (breaker and charger terminals) would need to be rated at 75°C despite the fact that 8 gauge THHN could handle up to 50 amps. Even if the wire itself is rated to a higher temperature, it is best practice to size wiring based on the 60°C column. A 10 gauge THHN wire is adequate for the ground on a 50 amp circuit, according to my further research.

Step 6: Connections in the Sub Panel

Before you do any electrical work in a sub panel, you should flip the breaker on the main panel to supply power to the sub panel. You might not be able to turn off the power to a main panel while you’re working on it. A qualified electrician will understand how to safely work on a live panel. The ends of the wires were stripped before being attached to the proper locations in the sub-panel.

Step 7: Connections in the Charger

The charger has connections for the ground and the two-phase wires. I inadvertently also ran a 6 gauge neutral to the charger, which was not needed. I didn’t pull the neutral out, I just capped it with a wire nut and pushed it out of the way, don’t run this wire.

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A sizable green plastic block has terminal connectors on the side into which the two-phase wires are inserted. The phase wires are held in place by two Phillips screws located at the top of this block. Before inserting the wires, be sure to fully loosen these screws. When I first inserted the wires, the screws were not loose enough to secure them, even after I tightened them. Tesla recommends torquing the phase terminal screws to 33 in-lb (3.8 N-m)

On the circuit board, a tiny aluminum block is where the ground wire is connected. Tesla advises tightening this connection to 18 in-lb (2.0 N-m). Give the wires a tug after tightening the screws to make sure they are in place.

Step 8: DIP and Rotary Switches

Two DIP switches located inside the charger serve as instructions for the device regarding how to be wired. You can wire the charger using either a single 240V phase returning to a neutral (line to neutral) or two 120V phases (line to line), as I did when I wired it. To the right of the DIP switches is a rotary dial, which is used to set the maximum current that the charger can draw.

Step 9: Closing the Charger

The charger can be shut back up once the wiring is complete. Make sure the ribbon cable is connected to the circuit board on the inside of the cover before you reattach the inner cover. The same T20 security Torx screws that were earlier removed are used to secure the inner cover. By pushing along its edges, the outer cover is finally snapped back onto the charger. The lone T10 Torx screw used to fasten this cover is located at the bottom.

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After the covers are installed, the circuit breaker supplying power to the charger can be flipped on and the charger is ready for use. The Tesla charger will perform a brief boot process when it is powered on. The front window of the appliance will show a solid green light when everything is finished.

Tesla Home Charging Options

There are several options for your Tesla home charger.

Option #1: Tesla Level 1 Home Charging

It seems appropriate to put the most basic “Level 1” charging option at #1. Simply plugging your car into a standard 120V outlet—the same type you use to plug in your TV, computer, or lamp—will accomplish this. There is no need to install anything with this option, so the setup cost is $0. When you want to charge your car, you simply plug it into the Tesla charger you have at home.

This is commonly called “trickle charging” because you’re essentially just trickling electricity into the car at a very slow rate — about 3 to 4 miles per hour. This is sufficient for some owners. Others need to charge up more quickly between drives and decide to go with a Tesla-compatible “Level 2” charger installation or at least use a 240V dryer outlet to charge faster than on a 120V outlet.

Option #2: Use Dryer Outlet for Tesla

This is nearly as easy as option #1. Naturally, you need access to a 240V outlet (like a dryer outlet), not just a basic 120V electricity outlet. A Tesla dryer adapter is also necessary. The fact that there are numerous different plug types (NEMA 10-30, NEMA 14-30, NEMA 14-50, etc.) is significant.) — a 240V outlet is not as uniform as a 120V plug.

Luckily, you are not one of the first 100 Tesla buyers and not even one of the first 100,000 Tesla buyers. We’ve reached a point where even these kinds of peculiarities and product requirements have been addressed and made simple, with about 2 million Teslas currently on the road. For instance, you can click here to find the precise 240-volt outlet splitter you need to share your dryer outlet with another device for Tesla level 2 charging.

It Could Cost $7,000 to Install a Tesla Charger at Home Depending on the  State of Your Garage

There are a few aspects of this choice that I adore wholeheartedly.

First of all, the faster charging speed compared to 120V charging is noticeable. For some people, this can be extremely helpful or even crucial for their charging and driving needs. Instead of adding 3 to 4 miles of driving range per hour, you can add 15 to 30 miles per hour.

Second, you can connect a Tesla charging station to your 240V outlet using the NeoCharge Smart Splitter even if it is already in use. In order to get faster charging, a dryer (or other appliance) can share a dryer plug with a Tesla Model 3, Model Y, Model S, or Model X.

In fact, its splitter is so intelligent that, when both your dryer and Tesla are plugged in, whenever you need to use your dryer, the Smart Splitter will automatically pause your Tesla charging and resume when the dryer is finished. You can use the Tesla Mobile Connector that comes with your Tesla car to quickly and easily self-install it.

Cost: $0 if you have a free dryer outlet, $499 for the NeoCharge Smart Splitter.

Option #3: Charge Two Teslas on One Outlet

Continuing on the topic of using a 240V electricity outlet, if the outlet is in use because you already have an electric car and have a Level 2 charging station plugged into it, you can use the 240V NeoCharge Smart Splitter to put another charging station (two in total) on the same outlet. Then, if you’d like, you can decide to charge both of your EVs at once at half power.

Importantly, there’s no Tesla home charger installation cost with this option! Installing a Tesla charger is not inexpensive. Additionally, if you install a charger, you might need to upgrade the capacity of your electric panel, which can raise the price by a few thousand dollars. You could potentially save a lot of money if you can install a Smart Splitter in an existing outlet and avoid having to pay for both the installation of the charger and possibly upgrading the electrical panel.

The NeoCharge Smart Splitter is priced at $449.

How to Install a Tesla Charger at Home? a Complete Guide

Option #4: Install Tesla Charger in Garage

The Level 2 Tesla charger installation is the most expensive option of these three, as was already mentioned. Many Tesla owners nevertheless engage in it. The price of installing a Tesla charger can vary significantly depending on your garage’s design, your home’s current power capacity, the required wiring work, and your local market (the cost of living and, consequently, the availability of electrician services, differs between Silicon Valley and a small rural town).

Nonetheless, answering the question of how much it costs to install a Tesla charger as broadly and usefully as possible, in general, a Tesla charger installation typically costs somewhere between $1000 and $7000+. Not including the price of the Tesla charger itself, that is just the installation cost. (Of course, in some circumstances, more difficult or complicated installations may cost thousands more. There are undoubtedly some bizarre and intriguing edge cases.)

Depending on your electrical panel, wiring, and model, a $500 Tesla home charger can increase your car’s top speed by up to 44 miles per hour (70 km per hour).

How Much Does Tesla Charger Installation Cost?

The cost of a residential Tesla charger costs between $300 and $900. However, labor costs can tack on an additional fee, which could be between $400 and $1,800. The cost of installing a Tesla charger depends on the electrical panel in the home as well as the amount of work required to ensure that the installation complies with code requirements and that the new charger, as well as the home’s electrical system, can safely power the vehicle.

An installation project for a Level 3 charger may cost between $10,000 and $40,000. As a result, these are most common in public charging areas, like commercial parking lots and garages. However, condominiums and apartment buildings are installing these stations in many states.

Because they just need a regular wall outlet, level 1 chargers are inexpensive, costing between $100 and $200. While cost-efficient, Level 1 Tesla charger installation is the slowest charging option, as it can take roughly 24 hours to fully charge an EV. You should know the cost to full-charge a Tesla. We also explore the charging time of the Tesla Cybertruck, Tesla Model 3Tesla Model S P100DTesla SemiTesla Model STesla Model XTesla Model YTesla Model S Plaid, and Tesla Roadster.

Who Does Tesla Charger Installation?

If you choose a Level 2 Tesla charger installation, you can hire a locally certified electrician to evaluate your home’s electrical system and make an installation plan for your new charger. The amount of new wiring or other work required to finish the installation will again affect labor costs.

You should look for EV charger installation professionals who have experience with these installations if you’re installing a Level 3 Tesla charger. In order to locate regional contractors who can carry out Tesla charging installation projects for commercial properties, Tesla may offer some useful information and resources.

Conclusion: Install Tesla Charger at Home

The best Tesla charger for your needs must be chosen before making a purchase of one of Tesla’s three charging options. For personal or residential use, drivers opt for a Level 1 or Level 2 charger.

The best Tesla chargers for home use, however, are Level 2 models because Level 1 chargers are the slowest option. They can fully charge an EV overnight. To ensure safety and proper installation, all Tesla chargers must be installed by a professional.


Can I Install Tesla Home Charger Myself?

The third-generation Tesla Wall Connector is made to be installed quickly and easily. Landing wires can enter an open wire box with integrated terminals from the top, bottom, or back, and there is plenty of room for them to do so. Installers can activate Wall Connector and connect to customer Wi-Fi networks using a smartphone.

Is It Worth Installing Tesla Charger at Home?

Ultimately, the Gen 3 Tesla Home Charger is worth it because of its reliably fast charging speed, sleek appearance, and WiFi mobile remote capability.

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